Heritage, food and handicrafts trail to Sayla, July 2019
April 12, 2020
This visit to Sayla was organized as the first of the attempts by FEA to support small self-sustaining family-run properties in rural areas where local cooks and artisans need tourism revenue to thrive. The participants included bloggers, heritage enthusiasts and photographers.
We took an early start from Ahmedabad to reach Sayla in time for breakfast at the Bell Guest House. This colonial-period guesthouse of the Jhala Rajputs of Sayla has some interesting European, Indian and even Gujarati architectural features. Somrraj Singh Jhala from the erstwhile ruling family of Sayla greeted us at the portico.
A unique feature of the Sayla heritage is the mix of cultures – Somrraj Singh’s mother was from Bolangir Patna in Odisha and his grandmother was from Patiala. He told us about matrimonial links with families in Chhattisgarh and other parts of India too. Therefore a mix of food from Odia fish dishes to Patiala’s pulao to Jodhpuri mutton and Kathiawadi dishes are part of the repertoire of Bell Guest House cooks,
He had asked his cooks from Odisha to prepare the food. Brreakfast included Odia-style Samosas, Barri Vada, Gughni, Chakli Pertha and Chai.
After breakfast, we set out to Sejakpur where we visited the 12th century Navlakha Temple , an architectural gem of the Solanki Rajput period, and nearby ruins. At the village of Sejakpur we saw Kathi women doing beadwork. The countryside was scrubby – we saw two snakes, a red sand boa and a ratsnake, and a few birds typical of the dry landscape. For lunch, the Bell Guest House had set up an Odia lunch most suited for the warm and humid weather. The centerpiece of the meal was the Dahi Pakhala Bhat prepared with rice, curd, cucumber, cumin seeds and mixed spices. Around the rice pot were set a number of plates and bowls filled with Bhajas, Bhajis, Fried Fish, Chingri (prawns) and Tomato Chatni. For desserts there was malpua with Rabdi.
After lunch, we set out on a textile trail visiting the ikat weavers who make richly patterned sarees and other fabrics, the tangaliyo weavers and a family that weaves rugs using recycled threads and fabric pieces.
We returned to Bell Guest House for chai and Kathiawadi snacks before starting the return journey to Ahmedabad.
Photography credits: Antara Boruah
Trail Leader
Anil Mulchandani is an independent writer from 1992. His articles have been published in more than 50 publications, including most of India's leading newspapers, magazines, inflight publications, newsletters and journals. Largely known for his travelogues and food articles, he has also covered diverse subjects like the arts, handicraft,enviromental and social issues, social development initiatives, industry, innovative entrepreneurs, architecture and interiors, sports, among others, Anil is the author of many internationally-published travel books, including guides to Kerala and Southern India, Goa, Gujarat, Rajasthan and other states. He has also written coffee table books and commemorative volumes for industry associations and government organisations. He is also a food critic and author of food guides. He has lectured on heritage, eco-tourism and culture at many seminars. conferences, workshops and symposiums. He is also a tourism or food committee member of many associations and industry organisations. On 12th July 2017 Anil Mulchandani launched the social media group called FEA - Food Entrepreneurs Alliance that connects more than 1500 people in the food and hospitality industry to each other for common causes. He has started the Innovative Food Entrepreneurs Associates, a social enterprise with Dilip Thakker, Rohit Khanna and Darshan Rawal who are co-admins of FEA. He was awarded Best Travel Writer by Madhya Pradesh Tourism. Gujarat's 50 Golden Destinations, a coffee table book authored by Anil Mulchandani for Gujarat Tourism, won the national tourism award.
